Originally focused on the restoration of my November 1961 built (1962 model year) Type 3 Karmann Ghia (343) I have now extended the blog to cover the ongoing ownership of my 1964 built (1965 model year) RHD type 3 Karmann Ghia (344) purchased in 1982.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

September update 4

I have continued to concentrate on the front of the car and have now finished the majority of the front boot area, other than securing the spare wheel well and adjusting the front bumper and boot lid.

The other major task remaining is to get the headlights to fit. The correct headlamp to body work seals are proving too thick to enable the top of the headlamp rim to locate on the headlight bowl hook. I have adjusted the hook as best as possible and removed excess paint from the rear, as well as checking that the headlight rim retainer springs are not in the way but so far no joy. My approach is leave them until next week and have a beer!

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

September update 3

I have refitted the fog lights after putting the new front wiring loom in place etc. Luckily I had one original remaining fog light to body seal (dark grey in colour). To replicate them I took some NOS T14 inner headlight seals (light grey, like the headlight to body seals) that go around the lense and cut of the outer edge of them and then adjusted them to the correct length and super glued them together to make great replacement seals.

I have also recreated the front bonnet drain pipe. To do this I took a T14 front bonnet corner drain and cut it in 2 as in the photo. I then purchased some tubing with the correct internal diameter to accommodate the end of the corner drain with the 90 degree bend. Once this was glued in place I located this in the hole in the front slam panel and then made an cross shaped incision in the top of the rubber horn knickers used for covering pre 65 model T34s, ensuring that the pipe went far enough into the knickers so that the water drained externally rather than accumulating inside the knickers or entering the car.
To do this for 65 and later model cars it is advisable to use 2 T14 front bonnet corner drains, using one at the top and one at the bottom where it will exit through the horn hole blanking plate (As horns fitted to bumpers).
If you are really careful with your craft knife you can also take the part from an old pair of the rubber horn knickers that goes into the horn hole and cut an extra slot into the internal lip to accommodate the blanking plate as well as this rubber is no longer available. did this on my 65 back in 1992 and it is still working OK.

Saturday, September 06, 2008

September update 2

I have concentrated on installing the front wiring loom today. the reproduction loom made by Autosparks is excellent and they built in all the repairs to the loom that were needed to bring it back to original spec. One thing I left as it was on the original loom was the wire from the horn relay to the fuse box. This was black with a yellow stripe, rather than green in the wiring diagram.

Next on my plan is to press on and finish everything in the front bonnet area and then move to the installation of the main loom and completion of the rear boot area.

When trial fitting the lower dash pad as mentioned in a previous posting, I found that as expected the later post may 62 padded dash pad that I bought won't fit my pre may 62 dash without alteration. You can see why if you look at the photo of my dash versus the dash of Paul Colberts car (thanks Paul, photo lifted from your site).
In May 62 the steering column was raised 20mm and they did this by cutting out a section of the dash board. The later padded dashes therefore won't fit as they are not recessed to accommodate the area over the top of the steering column that was removed and existed on the first production cars.

Wednesday, September 03, 2008

September update 1

I have fitted the brake fluid reservoir and line to the master cylinder and refitted the petrol tank and breather pipes. Also now installed in the front boot is the tank top liner,flip up tray for the spare wheel and the paint colour code sticker. once I have the spare wheel well back from the body shop then that can be fitted as well. Photo shows the area before some final paint touching up was completed.

At the rear the air control flap in the engine bay and cardboard intake pipe is in place along with the rubber belows and correct clamps. I had a NOS set of bellows - went to fit them and my fingers went straight through the rubber whilst manipulating them into place - luckily as usual I had a good used one in the cupboard and that has now been fitted.

the rear and side badges are in place, the side ones look to be a bit of an issue as the Karmann script looks out of line - not going to worry at this stage as I shall accumulate any issue and take the car to the body shop at the end of the fit up for final sorting. This is a problem of my making as I drilled the holes.

I offered up the lower dash pad to see if it would fit OK - early 62 cars had a slightly different lower dash area, cars from May 62 had the steering column raised 20mm, this altered the dash shape and the lower pad shape. So looks like I will need to be brave and cut the rear of my later lower pad to make it fit.

I have been fitting the various heater pipes inside the car, I am sure I took photos of where each of them went and I know roughly their location under the rear seats and in the inner rear wing to rear screen outlet but am no longer sure which goes where. Without the photos it will be a process of elimination. one pipe needs sections replacing and I have the correct diameter tubing to do this, a task for the weekend.